Take Off to the Great White North

The last of our travels around Ireland lead us to Northern Ireland in search of the famed Giants Causeway. We departed on Thursday afternoon when Christina got off early from work, in hopes of beating the end of the day traffic. It worked perfectly. The car was afforded to us from our lovely British, (now living in Galway,) friends the Dobell’s. They are wonderful people and yes very generous.

We stopped in Sligo for dinner and a chance to stretch our legs but soon drove on. Our goal for the evening was to get to our B and B just across the border in Enniskillen. The winding roads and early darkness made things a bit treacherous but we made it safe and sound. We learned later that Enniskillen was the site of an infamous 1987 bombing that killed 11 people during “the troubles” in Northern Ireland.

Friday morning we were off to Armagh, southwest of Belfast. We stopped downtown at a small park for a Frisbee tossing session and a walk to the grounds of a local planetarium. The facility was closed but the outdoor amenities were quite educational and fun. Did you know that it takes 8 minutes for the light from the sun to reach us here on earth! Also, the light we’re seeing from some stars was emitted way back in the 1500’s! Holy Cow! But we digress…We then lucked out and found a great lunch spot. After our delish bagel sammys we were off again.

We arrived in Belfast at about 3, meaning we found the city at that time. It took us another hour to actually find our B and B. The directions were horrible and we were lost countless times. Ireland never was really great at the whole, having-street-signs-so-people-know-where-they-are thing. Thankfully Christina has excellent map and navigation skills so eventually we arrived.

It was a true test of patience and remarkable that we were able to land at our b and b in one piece and not too frustrated. As if that wasn’t enough our room wasn’t ready yet. But not to worry because our very friendly and talkative German hostess (who refused to make Irish breakfast, fair enough I suppose) offered us tea and directed us to the Belfast Castle which was only a 20 minute walk away.

We departed for the Belfast Castle hoping to see the grounds and get a bit of history. The Castle is situated on top of a well known area called Cave Hill and has been restored into a restaurant and tourist attraction. It was too bad that it was dark at 4:30 otherwise we would have explored more. Cave Hill is supposed to be a great place to hike and it offers great views of the city and surrounding landscape. We didn’t realize that being so far north we would be in the dark before dinner time, so we only had a short visit, and then ventured on to town for some dinner.

We decided that Saturday would be the better day to go into the city as most stores would be closed on Sunday. Plus we had the Giants Causeway to see then. Again thanks to our wonderful tour guide at the B &B we were directed to a lovely farmers market called St. George’s Market. It was BRILLIANT. Imagine Fresh fish and seafood, organic smoothies, fresh ground coffees, hand made crafts and jewelry. You name it they had it. And did I mention the band played everything from Bob Marley to the Beatles! We enjoyed fresh fish tacos (meaning the chef picked out one of the fresh fish a vendor was selling and cooked it) and paella for lunch.
After leaving the market, we rode the Belfast eye, A.K.A. the large ferris wheel situated next to city hall and a smaller version of the famous London Eye. It was a sight to be seen, it would have been gaudy if it wasn’t so perfectly white and almost sculpted in the way it looked. The view would have been great but the rain made it a little less awe inspiring. Still, we got to see the bay, Cave Hill and a nice view of the sky line.

Saturday night we ventured to the south side of town to try out the Fat Buddha, a fusion of Thai, Japanese, and Korean food. Great meal but half the fun was finding the place as we saw huge masses of people file into local pubs in hopes of watching a Northern Ireland soccer match critical to the upcoming Euro cup 2008. They won 2-1 in dramatic fashion, and the crowds were thrilled with the result. We could tell because songs like “we’re not Brazil we’re Northern Ireland” sung to the tune of Battle Hymn of the Republic, sounded in the streets as well as the pubs. Not that that made any sense to us, but they seemed very happy with themselves.
Now about these Belfast residents, they definitely have their own distinct accent. It’s a thicker brogue and closely related to Scottish. They even say words like “wee” when referring to something small.

Sunday we ventured to the Giants Causeway and up the scenic Antrim coast road. We started early and took our time. The views of the ocean were fabulous wherever we stopped. The cool fall air only added to the experience as we walked to explore the coastline and stretch our legs. We could even see Scotland across the water! At the closest point it was only about 14 miles away! Eventually we made it to the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge, the temporary bridge that originally was used to allow the fishermen to get further out on the rocks in order to catch the migrating salmon. It’s a popular post card image that many of you have probably seen. It was fun to be there but we were sad that bridge wasn’t there for us to cross. (Its only up for the spring and summer months).

The Giants Causeway was like a scene from another world. This is a place where the rocks form in hexagonal pillars, 40,000 interlocking basalt columns to be exact. They formed in this way due to the slow nature in which the magma cooled and then how the rest of the earth around was worn away. Most of the columns are hexagonal but some have been found with four, five, seven and eight sides. The ocean did seem to have its effect on the rocks but erosion was only slight. The legend goes that a Giant in Northern Ireland wanted to be with his Scottish love. The only problem was that pesky ocean in the way. So he built “steps” so he could travel to see her. There are similar rocks on the Scotland side, hmm, could the legend be true?

Monday we decided to hit the road early and head for the Hill of Tara, just north of Dublin. Typical of Irish roads, we were detoured due to a road closing. Again Christina’s navigation skills got us to our destination no worse for the wear. The Hill of Tara wasn’t like I expected it to be. It was a huge gently graded hill that still managed to have incredible views in all directions. We learned that on a clear day you can see 15 counties! It is also where the high kings of Ireland were crowned. We also learned that even though it’s a tourist attraction that it’s still a field where sheep graze so you need to be careful where you step as plenty of land mines abound.

We made it back to Galway at dusk. We stopped off at the Dobell’s for dinner. Like I said earlier they are British, and the meal was likewise. Two pizzas (one with corn) baked beans, and chips aka French fries, and then “pudding” for dessert, which isn’t necessarily pudding, but whatever sweet comes to the table. We didn’t say anything and gladly ate the meal with them but later Christina and I had a good laugh about how stereotypically British it all was.

So that was our trip to NI. It was wee and sweet but we learned an interesting bit of knowledge upon our return that most Irish people from the “south” don’t ever make it up there. It seems that we foreigners have seen more of this country than the natives themselves. Go figure…

Race Day

I woke up at 6:15. Well, really it was 6:25ish when I pulled myself out of bed. I was awake before the alarm but for some reason I was having a hard time getting out of bed. Eventually I got dressed, being careful not to forget the band aids on my chest. I then had a lovely pre-breakfast meal. I had read that you should eat 2-3 hours before the race so I didn’t want to take any chances. I fueled up with a cookies and cream Powerbar, banana and some pecans all washed down by a Gatorade-like drink. I could only hope this was the true breakfast of champions.

It was now 7 and Christina was up and ready to go downstairs for breakfast. Two pieces of bread and a bowl of corn flakes later I felt ready to go. After a short taxi ride we were in downtown Dublin looking for the starting line. First I had to drop my bag off at the luggage depot and then it was bye bye to Christina for a while.

Runners were everywhere; stretching, walking, and trying to stay warm. I even saw some wearing trash bags for warmth and to keep the wind out, very clever. Others brought extra layers of clothes that they simply threw to the side of the road in the 10 minutes before the race began. It seemed like such a waste, but what did I know, I was only a newbie and knew little about how a plastic bag can keep you warm before the start of a race.

Finally the gun sounded and the race began. A large CHEER erupted from the mass of about 12,000 runners. I was excited to get going but because we were packed in like sardines it would be another 3 minutes before I could reach the starting line.

The starter made a joke about all the bobbing heads and the fact that we were a sea of colors bounding down the road. Not very funny but no one was really listening anyway. Everyone was preoccupied with avoiding the other runners and his remarks were drowned out by the melodious sound of sneakers hitting the pavement.

The first mile flew by even though I was trying to take it slow as I had been advised by many a friend, family member and any reputable running book or magazine. I knew they were right but I still had to force myself to save my energy for the remaining 25 miles. I felt like everyone around me was running like it wouldn’t take them 4 hours to finish this thing, I knew better.

Mile 3 soon came and the first port-o-potties (or as they were called, port-o-loos) arrived. There was a long line and I wasn’t about to be stopped. I soon realized that I was not the only one unwilling to be held up in such a line, as most people weren’t using these toilets to relieve themselves at all. I was able to wait for another mile or so but soon I was joining the other runners (not all men mind you) in the wooded area of the park for a bladder emptying of my own.

Mile 3 was also significant in that it was the first of many water stations; they came every 3 miles afterwards. The best part was that they had squirt bottles, an enormous upgrade over cups. You could take them with you and ration your water for when you might need it most, brilliant!

By about mile 6 I was still feeling good when I was surprised to realize that I had reached this point quicker than I thought I would- about 56 minutes. This was a welcomed development but it didn’t take away from the fact that I still had 20 miles to go.

Mile 10 was when Christina told me to look for her. I saw the mile sign and about a minute later there she was smiling ear to ear shocked that I had gotten there so soon. Sarah, our friend and Christina’s fellow OT, was also there to keep Christina company and to cheer me on. I had an official cheering section! I was past them in a flash but it gave me the boost I needed.

Maybe it’s no coincidence, but miles 10-13 felt great. I was in the zone. I overtook some people and felt like I was cruising. Despite this steady pace I too was getting passed and thus I came to the conclusion that for every one person you pass ten people passed you. A little defeating but you can’t let that bother you.

Another great dynamic of the race was seeing the fans out in full effect! Countless cries of “well done” and “you can do it” sounded throughout the masses. Little kids lined the streets and I made every effort to slap hands with a child if they stuck their hand out there for me.
Miles 16-20 were getting harder but I still felt reasonably ok. One part of my body or another would start to hurt but I kept running. Somehow the pain would go away, at least for a little while. I thought if I can just keep running, even if I slow down, I would make it.

It wasn’t until about mile 22 that I “hit the wall”. My legs started to cramp up worse than before. Again I slowed down and tried to work through the pain. That strategy worked until mile 25 ½ when my left hamstring wouldn’t allow me to run anymore. So, at that point, I walked, much to my dismay as well at the spectators lining the streets to cheer along the final stretch. Luckily, after about a minute, I was able to run again. Just in time too, because I saw Christina and she ran with me until she was eventually yelled at to leave the course, but that was ok, I was rejuvenated and was able to finish, running all the way.

Surprisingly, I was more emotional when I turned the corner and saw the finish line not when I actually crossed it. By that point I was relieved to not have to run anymore. I was quickly greeted with a medal and eventually by the goodie bag that held the coveted finishers t shirt. I walked through the finish area in hopes of finding Christina. A long half an hour later we met up and what a sweet reunion it was.

To sum it all up, I was sore but happy. The Dublin Marathon 2007 was a huge success. Not because I ran 4:12, about 20 minutes faster than I had planned but simply because I finished. I knew I would. I had decided before the race that I was going enjoy the entire day and let the time be what it would be. That's exactly what I did. The finish was awesome but the process of how I got there made it all that more sweet.

Some highlights of the race:
Not a drop of rain.
Three separate music spots: one playing the Rocky theme, one Bruce Springsteen, and another with some upbeat dance tunes.
The Drum line at the start and end of the race.

The Phoenix Park Zoo and seeing the seals.
Seeing Christina at mile 10. Christina's smile was just the boost I needed.

Eating an orange slice at about mile 18 from a family of volunteers.

Slapping hands with a good number of kids lining the streets.

Eating a mini snickers bar at mile 24

Being complimented at mile 25. "That’s a beautiful pace. You’ll definitely get there with that"

That concludes my writings about the Dublin Marathon 2007. There are no official plans for another race of this magnitude but I am open to suggestions if someone is looking for a running partner.

Thanks for all of your encouragement.

The Emeral Isle and the Eternal City

In early October we were greeted by our last visitors, Christina’s parents. It had been since January that we had seen them last and the time apart had taken its toll. All the Skype calls, emails and packages were great but no substitute for the real thing. The Yulo’s arrived on a Friday and Christina was fortunate enough to get that afternoon and Monday off in addition to the week off she had already taken to go to Rome. Our Atlantic crossing visitors were like most of our guest tired upon arrival, but of course there was to be no rest for the weary. After a short visit, we checked them into their B and B. Marless House was again very welcoming and the Host, Mary was especially kind.

During the course of the rest of the day we showed them around town, had lunch at the Kings Head with Dad's first Guinness, and even managed a nap before we went out for the evening. We wanted our visitors to be in fine form as there as an important Rugby World Cup match of Ireland vs. France on that evening. Ireland had a rough go of it and the game ended as a one sided defeat but it was still fun to burgers the size of our head and try to explain all the rules of Rugby when I hardly know them myself.

Saturday was a driving day. This was the first time that Dad had driven on the left side of the road. Although he was quite good at learning this new approach he was not too keen on the whole thing. I would have gladly added myself to the insurance but that would have taken an almost two hour drive out of our way just so that John would drive less. Somehow that didn’t add up to us. So we set off for the Cliffs of Moher. We took our time and got there eventually. We stopped for lunch and many a time on the coast road to take in the beautiful views of the waves crashing against the craggy coast. The sun was out and we were on an adventure and saw no need to rush. When we did finally make it to the cliffs they were well worth the wait!

Sunday we took a break from driving and after church went into town for the Sunday market. We each got a falafel and cruised by the fresh produce, crafts and art work that the market had to offer. That night we went to McDonagh’s for the obligatory fish and chips dinner. You can t come to Ireland, let alone Galway and not have fish and chips. That just wouldn’t be right. So we indulged in the greasy goodness and got drenched in the rain afterwards as we tried to make it back to our car. Now that’s how we roll in Ireland!

Monday was another driving day as we went west on a drive to Connemara and Kylemore Abby. By this point Dad was becoming more confident on the roads. Connemara is a rugged countryside with lots of rocks and barren grassy plains. Mix that with scattered showers and sun and you had recipe for a wild day of driving, we even saw six rainbows in one day!!

Tuesday we embarked on our journey to Italia. Dad picked us up at 8 for breakfast at their B and B. Mary, the host, had invited us and we were not going to turn her down, Irish hospitality rivals Southern hospitality any day! It was great meal filled with lots of chatter amongst the tables of mostly US visitors. After a long drive across Ireland we reached the Dublin Airport. A two hour flight later we were all in a new country! When we touched down in Italy we were tired but so excited to start our adventure. The Yulo’s arranged for a driver to pick us up and what an experience it was to begin with an authentic Italian driver zooming his way down the “old Appia” and “New Appia” (Appian Way) past catacombs, the Colloseum, huge statues and lots of Smart Cars and mopeds that we were sure we were about to take out any second since we were in a large van tailgating everything in his path.

The place where we stayed, The Hotel Genio, was wonderful. It was located around the corner and past two gelaterias to the Piazza Navona (which Christina was quick to check out) and a short walk to the Pantheon. Wednesday we went to the Pantheon first. The dome is incredibly impressive… how did they DO that?? There is a hole at the top and water just comes right in when it rains! There are drains but they the size of a masquerade mask and there was only one, so we were glad it was sunny for fear of getting flooded out if it rained. Trevi Fountain was our next stop- and we loved it, it is such a beautiful sculpture! It’s a relatively new addition to the city, having been built in the 1800’s. It’s a great place to people watch. Legend has it that if you throw a coin in the fountain that you are promised to return to Rome- we definitely tossed in our change! We then found the “best place for Gelato in Rome” right around the corner and licked the fabulous flavors of cognac, pistachio, or banana (which I thought tasted better than the actual items they come from) while perusing a classic scene of farmers selling their goods at a small veggie market. There were elderly women and men vending their best grapes, chestnuts, tomatoes and sundry items. On a side note: Rome is great because you are spending your time mostly outside and if you go in it’s usually into a gorgeous church or a wonderful hotel or restaurant.

The Spanish Steps were also on our agenda for the first day. Or ground zero for tourist as they were called on our oft used map of the city. We hiked our way to the top and were greeted with a nice view and another gorgeous church to visit. It was a long day filled with tons of walking up to this point so the Yulo’s decided to head back to the Hotel for a cat nap. Tired though we were, we decided to press on. We found a quiet park with a great view of the city and then toured the Piazza di Poppolo. The Piazza itself was enormous not to mention the huge 2500 year old obelisk from Egypt and four lion fountains at its base. Eventually we trekked home and went out for one of many delicious Italian dinners.

Thursday was our day to go to the Vatican. We awoke early to avoid the crowds but that effort was in vain. We soon found out that for some strange reason the Vatican was free today and thus the line was already very long, even at 9am. After about an hour wait we finally got in to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel. Every room was more beautiful than the next. The Map room was an especially mesmerizing surprise. Maps of all of Italy covered both walls of a seemingly endless corridor. And the ceiling was filled with masterpiece upon masterpiece. Truly a room to spend hours in if you had the time and patience.

The Sistine Chapel was amazingly beautiful but a bit frustrating as well since the guards repeatedly yelled for everyone to be quiet and not to take photos. But people continued to talk and use their cameras. It was rude all the way around. Not the scene I was envisioning but still breathtakingly beautiful. It was phenomenal to note the detail that Michelangelo put into every inch of his work. His interpretations of Biblical stories are so dramatic and moving.
The Raphael Rooms were also a highlight. He himself did not paint all of them but they were credited to him as they were completed by his lesser known students. Nice for him but they don’t get any credit. By that point we had very tired feet and it was nearing the end of the day so we decided to come back on Friday for the rest of the Vatican experience: St. Peters Basilica and climbing up to the Cupola.

On the way back to the hotel we picked up a huge loaf of bread (as in the size of Christina’s torso), an assortment of cheeses, and a bottle of Chianti. What more do you need right?? What ensued was one of the many highlights from our entire trip. We had wine with cheese and bread on top of our hotel while we watched the sunset over the Vatican. What a romantic city!

Again Friday we woke early to beat the lines at the Vatican and this time we were successful. No more free days to create a log jam at the entrances. Saint Peter’s Basilica was ornate, overwhelming and totally gorgeous. We toured the entire church trying to take in all its magnificence. The Pieta was especially wonderful. Christina and I then climbed the Cupola to the top of the Basilica. The journey was tight going round and round spiral stair cases, up over 400 stairs, and through slanted narrow hallways- but we made it and the 360 degree view of the city was well worth the climb. We could see the 7 hills of Rome and beyond!

Saturday we went to the Roman Forum which includes the Coliseum. It was there that we were able to more fully realize the type of city Rome was a couple thousand years ago. Some of the ruins were in surprisingly good shape, while others were just seemingly piles of rubble, but the fact that we were walking among buildings that were erected at the time of Christ was fantastic. The “Temple of Romulus” (the founder of Rome) actually still had the originally bronze doors intact. At the south end of the Forum lies the awe inspiring Coliseum. It was an incredible structure for that time. It even used to be flooded at times to recreate sea battle scenes! However it was very sad to imagine what took place on the grounds most of the time -so much spectacle and history but yet so much death and cruelty.

Saturday night we again had wine with cheese and bread on top of our hotel while we watched the sunset behind St. Peter’s Basillica. This time it was Pino Grigio but the result was the same.
Sunday was our day to go to the antique market in Trastavere. It was short tram ride to the south part of the city. Boy was it ever a market. There had to be at least 10,000 people there, probably more. Booths were selling everything from old refrigerator magnets to jewelry to clothes to pet turtles. We found a few scarves for Mom, but that was about all we bought, just SOO much to root through and take in. The rest of our time was spent trying to stay out of the hot sun and see if we could find an antique or unique olive oil cruet but to no avail. We did find a great pizza place and I got a chance to sample Peroni, the Italian beer with Dad.

Changing gears…Sunday as you may know was the last day of the Major League Baseball season. You may also know that Christina and her parents are all Mets fans while I am a Phillies fan. The two teams entered the day tied for first place. Now during one of our walks around the city we noticed an Irish Pub that advertised showing all MLB games. We stopped by and the manager told us that yes they could show the game but that they might not have enough TVs as they also show all the NFL games. Football is usually more popular than baseball so we understood. But he did tell us to call or stop by and if he could he would put the game on for us. So of course we stopped by and the Phillies game was already on. The Phillies ended up winning the game and the National league East Championship. It was the first game of the season that I was able to watch and I couldn’t have asked for a better result. The Yulo’s and Christina were great about the whole thing. They were sad to see their beloved Mets loose but happy for me and the phightin’ Phils!

Monday the group split up. Christina and I went back to the Roman Forum and the Yulo’s went on a bus tour that included stops at the apian way and catacombs. Our trip was great but it included more walking, while the Yulo’s got to enjoy the comforts of a bus. Christina and I visited a wonderful church with an interesting set of tunnels and natural spring beneath the church. We also saw the Boca de Veritas or Mouth of Truth. As legend has it if you stick you hand in the mouth of this giant face and tell a lie your hand will be chomped off. So of course we stuck our hands in and were careful not to tell a lie as a friendly passer by took our picture. It was the last thing that we had wanted to see in the city. We could leave Rome knowing that we had done EVERYTHING we had set out to do. We met up for our last dinner with the Yulo’s and filled each other in on our day’s adventures.

Tuesday was a long day filled with planes trains and automobiles but not exactly in that order. We took a taxi to the airport in Rome, plane to Dublin, bus to the train station, train to Galway and bus to right down the street from our house. It was sad to say goodbye especially after such a great week together. But we all threw coins in Trevi fountain and are all sure to return to Rome to do it all over again!

Brogues and Barrets

My euro-savvy sister, Kim, recently came to Galway for a short but sweet visit. It was her first time to the Green Isle, so savvy as she may be we still got to show her around. The jet lag didn’t seem to faze Kim as it had all of our previous visitors. She was a little sleepy but more in the got-up-a-little-early kind of way, not the I-just traveled-5-hours-in-a-cramped-plane-and-didn’t-get-a-full-nights-sleep-and-now-it-feels-like-1am kind of way. What was also noteworthy was that once she made it to Galway she navigated the notoriously unpredictable city bus and arrived at our door without getting lost! The fact that she chose the bus over a taxi and managed to arrive in a timely fashion is extremely impressive.

When Kim arrived on Friday she was looking to stay awake and get familiar with her surroundings, so the two of us ventured into town by the for mentioned bus. We then proceeded to walk around town for a few hours only to run into my friend Dara from one of the agencies I volunteer with. The conversation was comical at first because Dara had met Christina and now wondered who this new woman was that I was walking around with. After I assured him it was my sister (he didn’t argue) it was all good.

We awoke Saturday to clear skies and sun, and as we have taught you all, this is incredibly rare to Ireland. We were lucky as it was the day that we had scheduled to go to the Aran Islands. If you remember last time I ventured to this same place, I was drenched by the rain all day. So the prospect of sun and clear skies was a vast improvement even if we all forgot to bring our sunglasses.

We had a great day biking all over the Island. Kim rode a bike for the first time in years, we saw seals, which find the shores of Inis Mor a grand place for sunning themselves, and got as close as we could bear to the cliffs at the Dun Angus fort.

Another highlight of Kim’s visit was our journey to County Mayo to once again visit the Gronell-Burke homestead. It was another beautiful day and our time at the cottage was calm yet enjoyable. We took lots of pictures, walked all around the property and generally tried to absorb the fact that our great grandmother used to live in the very spot we were standing on.

Tuesday night we headed to Shannon Airport for the second leg of our visit with Kim. This time we would be headed to Paris, France where Kim lived for a year as an exchange student. Kim was thrilled with the prospect of returning to the culturally rich Mecca that is Paris.

We arrived late in the evening and were greet by a glowing Eiffel Tower as we entered the City. Luckily we didn’t have any delays with our flight and the hostel was still open. We were a bit nervous since we had to check in by 1 and arrived by bus to the opposite side of the city at 12:15. We decided against the Metro and were blessed by the most efficient, if not rather erratic, taxi driver we’ve ever experienced and made it to the hostel just in time… although Christina was noted to have white knuckles by the end of the ride. It was an unassuming place but we had our own bathroom and two nice beds so we were plenty happy.

I awoke early Wednesday with a bold ambition: Run 5 miles in a city I didn’t know and a language I didn’t speak. I managed to complete the run but it was a bit monotonous as I was forced to run up and down the same street as to avoid getting lost. During my run I soon realized that Paris had welcomed us with a beautiful day, the let’s-go-see-Paris-from-the-Eiffel-Tower kind of beautiful. So that was first on the agenda. Well, finding a bakery for breakfast was first, but our Eiffel tower plans were a close second.

The Tower itself is massive and awe inspiring. You can take the lift (elevator) for 8 Euro or take the steps for 4. We chose the latter. It was a bit unnerving climbing the steps hundreds of feet off the ground, but also surreal. We had to keep reminding ourselves that we were really in Paris, on the Eiffel Tower for goodness sake! At the observation deck we got a full panorama of the Paris skyline and Kim was great about pointing out places of interest.

Once we ambled down we had a picnic lunch in a nearby park and decided to see the Louvre next. We went straight for the main attraction, Mona Lisa, and she did not disappoint. Her eyes followed us around the room and her smile was conversation inspiring to say the least. We also managed to see Venus De Milo, Winged Victory, and of course the glass pyramid that greets you to the museum, all awesome in their own right.

The Louvre was great and we were glad to have gone but it is extremely large and a tad overwhelming. So we left satisfied with what we had seen. We took a short rest while on the Metro and then ventured to the Sacre Coeur a.k.a. the Sacred Heart Basilica. We even got to rest our tired feet a little more during the evening vespers service where about fifteen nuns sang and prayed all in French of course. It was very peaceful. Later we found a café for dinner and ventured to Notre Dame for a crepe and some mango gelato. It was a long day but very memorable.

Thursday we went to the Pompidou, a museum for modern art. The sculptures in the water fountain were colorful, silly and one of our favorite sites. The museum was great too with lots of unique pieces. After a quick Panini we walked around the city to a few of Kim’s favorite shops and neighborhoods. It was a nice change of pace and a chance to see a different side of the city. I think we were exhausted from the day before so we headed back to the hostel for a nap. A few hours later we woke in time to head to a vegetarian restaurant Kim suggested. The food was excellent and our cheery waiter made the evening simply delightful as he humored us when we tried desperately to speak French, pretty terribly I might say, but we certainly tried.

Friday was another running day for me. This time I was a little bit more prepared. I had studied the map with Kim, planned out the Metro I could take if I got lost and even stuck 20 Euro in my shoe just in case I needed to hire a taxi. It was the run of a lifetime. I ran past the Louvre, Notre Dame, River Seine, and lastly through the legs of the Eiffel tower!! I didn’t get lost once and made it safely back to the hostel with the 20 Euro still tucked in my sneaker, what an incredible life experience.

After another delicious pastry breakfast in a cozy park we headed off to the Musee D’Orsay, a museum that once functioned as a train station. The high ceilings and ornate metalwork made for a quite a backdrop for all the art we saw.

That night we finally got a chance to gorge ourselves on baguette and cheese. Wine would have been nice but alas we didn’t remember to bring an opener, Orangina was the next best substitute. We met up with Kim’s friend and a few of his own friends for a wonderful dinner and evening out complete with mojitos and a walk along the city streets. It was so fun for us to hang out with such friendly and fun people and to hear the beautiful language being spoke all around us.

Sadly, we had leave on Saturday. We did some last minute touring of the city which included a visit to another bakery and the Impressionist Museum. The most colorful pastry shop caught our eyes just as we were headed to the Metro station and so we had to stop in for a one last sweet. We then rushed to get our bus. We got there with not minute to spare, a quick hug to Kim and we were off.

All in all it was a whirlwind tour, but one we won’t forget. Thanks to Kim for being such a wonderful tour guide.

A Webby Riney Good Timey

Our most recent visitors, Melanie and Eric Webb just left on Saturday. Melanie, my childhood best bud, and sidekick of serious silliness came with her fun-loving husband to Galway to visit for the last week. Despite their major jet lag, they were fun from the start. I made some WAY too strong java (note to self, never let the tea drinker mix the instant coffee) to keep them from falling asleep standing up. They were even up for exploring on that first evening. So of course we introduced them to Galway properly with McDonagh's fish and chips and a trip to the Front Door for some pints, Baileys and Irish Coffee (that's all together, not for each of us). Unfortunately I had to work the next day, but i left early after meeting them for lunch. We walked along shop street, the pedestrian only street, which is filled with funky shops, restaurants and talented street performers during the summer. That evening Eric played a spot of footie with Mike in his weekly soccer game. Melanie and i cheered them on and were ready with our CPR skills at any moment- the sides were playing fiercely.

The next day at work i was pretty miserable/ thankful to be there... why such a contrast you ask? Well Mike took Mel and Eric to the Aran Islands for some biking fun. I hated being away from my friends and the exploration they were experiencing while i was stuck in an old hospital with an old smell, wearing bottle green trousers; hence miserable. However, there was not one moment of the day that i looked out the window and didn't see lashing rain and gray skies. I often thought about how i lent my rain pants to Melanie, how Eric declined borrowing Mike's, and Mike fully clothed in his rain gear.... if there was one more on the trip, Eric wouldn't be the only one with a pruney, dish-pan-hands-like body; hence thankful. However, I have never met 3 people who are better sports about being fully soaked and clammy for 5 straight hours while touring a small island by bike. The 3 of them stepped off the ferry into 50 degree lashing rain weather and took a minute to decide between taking a bus tour around the island, a horse and buggy or bikes. After a minute they all said "what the hey, let's get wet and go biking!" They were trekking along the narrow roads trying to see through splashes and drops, attempting to climb hills through the insane weather, and what was that noise? The melodious sound Melanie was hearing was Eric (A.K.A. champ of the day) singing silly songs and keeping everyone laughing. At one point, just as Melanie was getting the hang of riding a bike without really being able to see or being able to remember what dryness felt like, two tour busses, were about to pass right next to little Melanie as she was cut off the road and was forced to hop off the bike to avoid being smushed into the stone wall. As if she wasn't wet enough, she hopped off directly into a puddle ankle deep and for the rest of the day her socks were sloshing with each step. Although it was a "crappy/ fun" day i am told it was the true bonding time for Melanie, Eric and Mike.

Wednesday i woke up with a bit of a cough, a headache, and i just couldn't make myself go to work. Especially not after Tuesday when every time i coughed a little the entire department tried to throw me out on the streets. A cultural lesson for me: Back in the states staying home sick from work meant you actively were experiencing both diarreah and vomitting, had a severely contagious disease which caused death, or had a limb actually hanging off of your being, otherwise you're considered fit to treat patients. This is in comparison to Ireland where if you cough more than 4 times, or complain of a headache or god-forbid, menstrual cramps, or say that your belly doesn't quite feel right after eating mashed potatoes, chips and crisps for lunch you can't be at work, someone must give you a lift home immediately and don't even think about coming in tomorrow if you don't feel better. But i digress. So Wednesday i went with my buddies on a bus trip to the Burren and Cliffs of Moher. We had a surprisingly beautiful, mostly dry day. The Burren was again phenomenal, the Cliffs were extremely windy (see picture on the far right of the page) and the coast line, my favorite, was breathtaking.

Thursday we head off to Dubs, Dublin that is. The train was SO worth it! 2 1/2 hours v. 5, toilets, food, a table to play cards, take 2 or to sleep on! I don't know that we'll EVER take the bus cross country again. We got to our B & B and were on the move again. We checked out Temple Bar, where all the pubs and restaraunts are and found the Bad Ass cafe where Sinead O'Conner used to waitress. We saw Christ Church, an impressive Cathedral with history dating back to the 1100's. Click on the picture and note the sign: We also got to St. Patrick's Catherdral too late to go in but the park was beautiful. And we saw the place where St. Patrick is to have baptized the Irish in the 5th century.

Our dinner was as Irish as it gets, some form of meat, some form of potatoes and Guinness.
Friday we got to see the Book of Kells at Trinity College after an amusement park-like wait in line. It was worth it- the history of the 8th century text of the 4 gospels was fastinating. It is an illumiated manuscript made with colors from ALL over the world from things like chalk from northern Ireland, to blue from a certain plant in China, to purple from a pregant insect of the Mediterraean (i'm serious). Then the ancient library of 2 open arched stories was beautiful! The old books from centuries ago were arranged on enormous bookcases about 30 deep! We finally got to see St. Patricks Cathedral on the inside, we checked out St. Stephen's Green and Marrion Square. After walking for hours 2 days straight we needed some rest so we found ourselves a cozy pub. We taught our buds how to play King, an easy to learn game our Brazilin friends taught us. Melanie and I didn't do so well, but we played for hours while sipping some warming drinks. We followed that up with a fantastic Italian dinner with Limoncello for dessert, which is a Webb family favorite. Our evening couldn't have been sillier or more memorable.

Parting was painful but we have some Riney-Webb future trips already planned that we're definitely looking forward to, Montana anyone?

Don't take my word for it

I always thought I was really good with directions. After all, I navigated Michael and I halfway around Ireland and we only got lost once, but signage in this country is in a poor state so i'm forgiven for that one. Well when our cousins Billy and Bill came to visit i resigned my self from map reading! We took them to the Aran Islands for Michael's birthday, the 28th, for the day that was meant to be the nicer of the 2 weekend days. They suggested that we go a different way from how we went the first time Mike and I went so we could see a new part of the island as well. Checking the map i noted a clearly marked yellow oval appearing to go past major sites of the island and then an equally clear white mark connecting to the outter skirts of the island. We never checked out that white line last time, i thought to myself. Confident as i was following the map we started off in the opposite direction than we did last time. The map showed the white road following the coast and jutting inwards up over a hill and eventually connecting with our destined yellow brick road. We biked about 10 minutes until we saw what looked a small road headed over a hill. This MUST be it. We started out ascent until the road got rockier and grass was growing beneath our tire wheels, narrower and narrower it became until it stopped at a gated path leading to a field of cows, the chickens were keeping watch over the gate and there was no where else to go. I looked back and noticed that Bill clearly was skeptical and never even bothered making the trek, but waiting about 1/2 way up for us to figure out for ourselves that this definitely wasn't our little white road. Thankfully there were workers i could ask to point us in the right directions. They said "Go right, and after the steepest downhill, make your second right." No street signs, no landmarks, just a quick look to his friend to make sure those were good enough directions. Off we were... "does this seem like a steeper hill than the last one"... "no that one ahead looks worse"... "its gotta be this one we just took, but where's the road". We found the "right" road somehow and up we went... and up, and higher, and steeper and did i mention up? it was ALL loose rock, ALL up, and this was considered a road. There weren't even COWS around here!! We went about 20 minutes when Bill asked, are you sure this is the right way... i didn't know what to say but "no". So on we went since going down this on our bikes would surely cause some major injury. Just when we thought we were going level, around the corner it went up again, i hated that direction after about 30 minutes! At last from the top we could see that somewhere off in the distance that little speck could be another person- hope at last. We hopped on the bikes and were never so glad to see a paved road as we were that day, ah, the yellow path... and that is why it is so clearly marked and encouraged to take. We again took them to ancient fort of Dun Aengus in the rain, and road back in the rain for some sweater buying and fresh fish and chips eatting, trying to dry off as the wet seemed to penetrate through our rain gear! I think they had a nice time dispite it all...

We came back for some key lime birthday cheesecake for Michael and then Mike's birthday dinner was the highlight of the day i'd say. Delicious Thai food (i think Bill and Billy's only meal without 3 huge mounds of potatos) finished off by a chorus of "HAPPY BIRTHDAY" by the whole restaraunt, he was thorougly embarassed, excellent.

Sunday, supposedly the ugly weather day was blue and bright and actually WARM. We drove all through Connemara and i mean ALL through it. We intended to just go to Killery Harbor (irelands only fjord) but again... with the map in my hand we saw WAY more of the coast line than we were hoping too. After about 2 hours in the car and passing only 1 town and perhaps 3 signs i couldn't even find our whereabouts on our map! Oh NO! So we pulled over so mike and i could study the next huge collaboration of signs posted and figure out which way to go, we must have looked just as we were.... completely lost, because the next car stopped, rolled down the window and offered his help immediately. He was our hero, he lead us to the next town that we could actually buy lunch in! We finally made it to the Connemara National Park and walked around on a path that started off much like our Aran Islands uphill path did- not funny. But the view from the top was of course gorgeous and worth it. We finished the drive home with the most phenomenal views of the green of Co. Mayo. Field upon field, steep hills with tiny streams of fresh water rolling down, determined stone walls reaching the tops of each tall hill. The area is amazing. Anyway, after all that driving Billy actually finished the 7th Harry Potter book! Well you know, not EVERYONE can be engrossed by the unbelievable natural beauty surrounding us each moment.

However, dispite all that, i'd have to say the most fun was the darts we played the first night we were there. Billy and I play against each other in a game that truly could have lasted weeks by the rate we were going... we were terrible (sorry Billy). Neither of us could get our last bulls eye and it must have been an hour at that point. So we moved on to Rinehimer's v Sickles in a game of 300- after 4 games the tournament was tied 2-2, but we decided that billy really won our first game since he was the first to get a bulls eye in our 300 games. So the Sickles happily left the champions. We had a great visit with them... who's next? Just don't let me get near the map!

Movin' on up to the East Side

We finally ventured east on the green Isle. We had a four day journey planned with a multitude of stops along the way. The most exciting part was that we DIDN’T TAKE PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION! Although he hadn’t driven stick shift in over 4 years, Mike got us from Galway to the East, Southeast and home, safely and without a scratch on the car. It takes a special Irish gene to be able to drive stick on windy narrow roads, of which you may have to dodge sheep, other cars and be able to not freak out when you can’t see around the myriad of curves because the bushes have grown about 10 feet high. Well, Mike’s Irish genes were shining brightly this weekend for sure! Although he was a great driver, managing the automatic windows was another thing. I was in stitches as he tried to crack his window a bit, but didn’t quite have the light touch to avoid the window going either completely up or down. It must have opened and closed at least a hundred times on the trip when all he wanted was a couple inches of air! I guess he’s been riding a bike too long now.


We had free tickets to the European Open at the K Club in Kildare about 20 min. west of Dublin. We stayed in a posh B&B, as it was the only one left, besides the Jacuzzi tub was certainly a draw. It looked over the country club and from the 2nd floor window we could watch the golfers on the 17th hole. We walked over to the club on Thursday morning as the first and only bit of sun was desperately peeking through the cloud laden sky. As soon as we got to the first hole the rain began and didn’t stop until evening. Despite the horrendous weather, chill, and the muddiest shoes you could imagine, we had a great time. Out motto became the deep thought by Jack Handy, “as the cool soft mud squished between my toes I thought, man, these aren’t very good shoes”. However, being within spitting distance of multiple golfers was so fun. Padraig Harrington, the Irish favourite, was one we tried to follow… as did EVERYONE else. We also kept tight on the trail of Nic Fasth, as a matter of fact, Mike had a lovely conversation with the bloke, and it went a little something like this: Mike-“Hey, nice putt” Nic- “Thanks”. Then about 7 holes later we saw him sneak into the woods for some relief… if you know what I mean. We even got a smile from David Frost! The tourney was fun, but we were disappointed that we never got a chance to see the eventual winner- ‘Monty’, the Scot, but Mike’s new friend Nic came in 2nd so we were proud of him for that.


That evening we drove to the Wicklow Mountains, known as “The Garden of Ireland”. The stunning landscape, cute little towns and breathtaking mountain scenery explains that name quite clearly. We made it to B&B #2 and collapsed on our bed after showering the mud off our shoes. Friday, after Michael’s 9 mile run for his marathon training, we explored Glendalough, which means Glen of two lakes. It is nestled between the greenest of mountains covered in grassiness and evergreen trees. Hiking around the place gives you a peace and a real “I love the outdoors” feeling. The history of the monastery located between the 2 lakes was fascinating, it was founded in the 9th century; those monks couldn’t have picked a more beautiful spot. We then hiked up to Poulanass Waterfall which rushes through many levels of the forest and shoots out like a waterslide at its first fall. We could have gazed at the view of the lake and mountains all day, but there was more exploration to do. We found a gorgeous exotic garden and walked about enjoying the variety of plants and colors. Mikes poor legs had enough by then after a 9 mile start and we just about fell asleep on a bench at one of the most scenic spots as we rested and took in the view.



We rambled south to Waterford next. The drive was so entertaining and my navigational skills were really challenged. Ireland rarely uses road names or road numbers except for on major roads, and as we looked at the map there are absolutely NO major roads from Wicklow to Waterford unless we were to go way out of our way. Following signs from town to town was our only means of knowing where to go. The drive never lacked amusement as we passed through towns with names like “Oola”, “Kilmacow” or “Mooncoin” I thought we were magically transported back to rural Georgia with the sounds of these places! Waterford was a nice city, fairly industrial though. The Crystal factory was more impressive than we expected. The process of making one piece is so laborious and calls for such skill that master crystal etchers go through more training than I did as an OT! We saw the whole process of glass blowing, cutting, carving and etching the glass. My appreciation of the pieces grew 10 fold after all that, and we wound up leaving with a bit less money than we started with.

Our final destination was Rock of Cashel- now here is a place with history! It began as a castle for kings starting around 360 AD and is said to be the place where St. Patrick plucked a shamrock to explain the Trinity and relationship of the Father, Son and Holy Spirit. He is also to have baptized and converted King Aenghus here. Oliver Cromwell did serious damage to this place, but there are still very well preserved ruins here, and even bits of the fresco in the chapel. The 800 year old stone roof of the chapel was very impressive to see; especially when we learned that is has yet to leak!

Our adventures were exciting and it was hard to leave them as we drove home. But we did manage a grocery run before bringing the car back to save Mike one less trek to the store on his bike and home again with his backpack full of produce!